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Thursday 11 January 2007

Luc BESSON / Léon Took a Taxi to See Nikita / 91

As a producer and/or director, and/or writer, and even occasionally as the camera operator, he has had a string of major hits. Le Grand Bleu (The Big Blue,1988) was the first, but there was also The Fifth Element (1997), Léon (The Professional, 1994), Nikita (1994), and Taxi (1998). Those just skim some of the cream from the top. As something of a child prodigy Luc Besson wrote early elements of The Fifth Element (who knows, perhaps the second and fourth?) while bored in school. After an accident at age 17 he abandoned his first dream, that of being a diver, and turned to films. In the trade his reputation is quite mixed as he has often been sued, with varying degrees of success, by associates and collaborators. His film company Europa Corp is frequently looked down on as less than professional. This might, or might not, all just be jealous carping. Certainly the public keeps him in taxi fare.

Original appearance Oct 11, 2005, © 2005 / Luc BESSON / 1959- / writer, director, actor, producer / best / A- / 91 / CIP 391, OO 08, RD 11, YP 30/3-11

Gérard PHILIPE / Immortal Youth / 95

It’s the James Dean story, it’s the tale of Marilyn Monroe, in France it’s the Gérard Philipe or the Coluche story. Bright stars cut down in their prime and given immortal youth – the stuff of legends. Interestingly enough he was born in Cannes, but he may have died too young to make it back. Still he managed a commemorative coin and stamp, and, in the latter case, was one of only two actors ever so honored. He was a handsome, versatile and professional thespian who was launched by the critical acclaim he garnered in the Camus play Caligula. Perhaps his best known film was Fan-Fan the Tulip (1952), where he played the peasant who marries the king’s daughter. That film did win for Christian-Jacque the Best Director award at Cannes. It was the closest Gérard Philipe ever came to returning to his birthplace professionally, but he remains a shooting star above it.

Original appearance Oct 11, 2005, © 2005 / Gérard PHILIPE /1922-1959 / actor, theater, Caligula / mixed / D- / 95 / CIP 395, OO 08, RD 11, YP 30/3-11

Wednesday 10 January 2007

Bois de Boulogne ..../.... A Rock in the Woods

Almost literally a stones throw from where I live in the 17th is, to me, one of the very best things Paris has to offer – the Bois de Boulogne. Indeed the city offers innumerable excellent parks, gardens, fountains and squares. But this one is special. It is huge, enormous, immense. Bois is woods in French and that is what this is, in almost downtown Paris. Over 2,000 acres. Green, gorgeous green. Islands, lakes, paths (60 miles), cycling, riding, boating. The whole shebang dates from the Second Empire but was totally redesigned by Charles Alphand (1817-91). My dogs Koala and Nikita would have loved it. I do.

Original appearance Apr 13, 2005, © 2005 / BOULOGNE / BOIS DE BOULOGNE, (WOODS) / PORTE MAILLOT, PARIS, 75116 / 01 40 19 95 33 / CIP 108, OO 06, RD 10, YP 30/3-10

Busses ..../.... Going My Way

I haven’t been on the long hauls – the equivalents of our Greyhound and Trailways – so I can’t speak to them, though I know they exist. Here I am speaking of the RATP local bus routes within Paris. There are over 60 routes and during the day it is possible to go virtually anywhere in the city by bus, though you may have to take more than one line. Most Parisians use the Metro (subway) more often but I much prefer the busses. Except at rush hour when you get a good impression of what a sardine feels like they are pleasant and reasonably efficient. They move relatively slowly because Paris traffic is almost always congested, but this can be viewed as a benefit. Open your eyes, look out the window and take a drink of Paris. For more practical information go to RATP and press the British flag for all the material that is available in English.

Original appearance Apr 13, 2005, © 2005 / CIP 017, OO 06, RD 10, YP 30/3-10

Roads ..../.... For Whom The Toll Rings

Two intercity road systems coexist side by side in France. The A routes are primarily toll roads – fast, sleek, modern, and expensive. An alphabet soup of 11 companies, ASF, SANEF and on and on run a network of over 3,000 kilometers of super highways. The N routes, which sometimes run parallel, are free, older, and considerably slower with meandering tracks that seldom bypass towns. The latter are actually similar to our blue highway system and, while they gain some in charm they lose some in speed. Both systems are in good repair and to be honest I think overall French roads may be a tad superior to American.

Original appearance Apr 13, 2005, © 2005 / CIP 018, OO 06, RD 10, YP 30/3-10

Countryside ..../.... Just Willie & Me

We’ve left the elegant Boulevards of Paris behind and ventured out into the countryside. Not much of Kansas here, more like Tennessee. The vast spaces are missing but there is a comfortable interspersion of hamlets, farms, meadows and mountains. Except for the stone architecture you might be wandering down any American byway in your old pickup truck listening to Willie. It feels like home. I notice the people are just a tad more friendly too.

Original appearance April 13, 2005, © 2005 / CIP 009, OO 06, RD 10, YP 30/3-10

Sound ..../.... The Horn of Plenty

Two years ago, when I first arrived, the cacophony of the city made a much bigger impression on me. The honking of the horns and the wailing of the sirens were intrusive, disorienting and it seemed to me constant. The only true liberty the Frenchman has is to honk his horn as long, as loud and as often as he is moved to. His example often moves all his compatriots to exercise their equal right. Here is true fraternity. In a major traffic jam (very frequent in Paris) the din is off the decibel scale. I have heard it, one horrendous honk – truly, deeply, vibratingly heard it – last twenty minutes to half an hour. Liberty, Equality, Fraternity in action.

An update: Okay, I thought I had heard it all, but I hadn't heard anything yet. When France wins a World Cup Soccer Match there is utter bedlam! Every time! For hours! The whole of Paris - up to and through the wee hours - cacophony and crescendo. Nothing comparable in the US to soccer mania in France - March Madness is tame and the Super Bowl silent. It is almost frightening. No - it is frightening!

Original appearance Apr 13, 2005, © 2005 / Updated July 2006, © 2006 / CIP 040, OO 06, RD 10, YP 30/3-10

Monday 8 January 2007

Rochegude …./…. The Full Range

We paused in the relatively non descript village overlooking the Côtes-du-Rhône valley for no good reason. Actually virtually all places in France have charm, but this wasn’t particularly alluring. We watched from a sun drenched square above the place where parents collect their children from school. A pleasant interlude of familial familiarity and neighborliness. Rochegude has a winery and a population of 179, not much else. Nothing remarkable. We saw a high walled enclosure but didn’t investigate. There are a lot of walls in France. Later, surfing the internet actually, I came across a reference to the Chateau de Rochegude. I investigated a little. Turns out it was a Four Star accommodation of 23 bedrooms, 2 apartments and a 25 acre park stocked with deer and does. Used to be the summer home owned by the Marquis de Rochegude. The French take their stars seriously. Four Stars is kind of special if your blood runs to blue. Seems the little village had the full range of services.

Original appearance Jan 8, 2006, © 2006 / ELSEWHERE / OUTSIDE PARIS / STILL IN FRANCE / ROCHEGUDE / CIP 182, OO 07, RD 08, YP 30/3-08

François MITTERRAND / All Over the Board / 24

In his first 20 years he was on the political right with Marshal Petain and the Vichy government. In his last 20 years he was on the left as a Socialist President. In between he was shifting. On his third try he was elected President in 1981. François Mitterrand is most associated with abolishing the death penalty, the Channel Tunnel, the Pyramid, the Grande Arche and moving ever closer to Germany. With Kohl he fathered the Maastricht Treaty and was often known as ‘the fox’ or ‘the sphinx’ but his critics just called him ‘god’. With shifting views, emphasis on image and endless controversy he is reminiscent of Clinton, though the other American President he is most often compared to is Nixon. Numerous scandals erupted: the Rainbow Warrior, wiretaps, health secrets, his daughter Mazarine and endless rumors. A complex and complicated man whose place in French history won’t be known for a couple of generations.

Original appearance Oct 8, 2005, © 2005 / François MITTERRAND / 1916-1996 / politician, President / good / C+ / 24 / CIP 324, OO 07, RD 08, YP 30/3-8

CHARLEMAGNE / Roland & Company / 22

Since both France and Germany today consider him the founder of their respective countries, and, as he did renew the Western Empire with his pan-European Carolingian Renaissance, he may be a tad big to cover here. Let’s view Charlemagne with my own small boy’s eyes of half a century ago. When I was a young lad I thrilled to the Song of Roland, an old 11th century French epic poem. It concerned a rear guard battle led by Charlemagne’s nephew, the Paladin Roland. The events actually did take place in 778 in the Battle of Roncevaux Pass, though a considerable amount of poetic license occurred in the epic (for example the Basque enemy became the Saracens). Roland died heroically and became a classic example of the virtues of chivalry. Roland, Ivanhoe, Robin Hood, Sitting Bull and the lone American Cowboy became my heroes. Still are. Back to Charlemagne and less prosaic matters, many of the French aristocracy do trace their ancestry directly back to him, and so did William Howard Taft.

Original appearance Oct 8, 2005, © 2005 / CHARLEMAGNE / 747-814 / Royalty, Charles I, C… the Great / better / B+ / 22/ CIP 322, OO 07, RD 08, YP 30/3-8

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