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Wednesday 17 January 2007

MOLIERE / Shakespeare Sur Seine / 8

La Comédie-Française , the house that Molière built, is like most things in Paris just a couple of blocks from the Seine. It’s not on Avon but it’s every bit as central to French theater as the Bard. Stinging wit, high comedy and satire were Molière’s métier. He was the complete theater – actor, director and playwright and he particularly specialized in the caricature of vices. His ‘Precious Maiden Ridiculed’ (1659) launched him after an earlier attempt at Paris came to grief (bankruptcy) in 1643. He toured the provinces for 12 years before giving it another try. He was strongly influenced by Italian comedy, drew incisive portraits, and was extremely controversial due to his attacks on the church and the medical profession. I guess there was no doctor in the house when he died onstage while performing ‘The Imagined Malady’ in 1673. That’s giving it your all.

Original appearance Oct 17, 2005, © 2005 / MOLIERE / 1622-1673 / author, playwright, one word / best / A- / 8 / CIP 308, OO 10, RD 17, YP 30/4-17

Henri SALVADOR / Southern Nights / 52

Tangy tastes of the bossa nova, the rhythms of Rio and São Paulo wafting on the sultry evening air – a staple of the Paris nightclub scene since 1935. French culture fusion at its best. Henri Salvador was born in Cayenne, French Guiana in 1917. All the sources that I read mentioned Django Reinhardt as a major influence. All the sources also refer to Boris Vian as a collaborator. So I have remarked on both of them. A couple of the sources mention Ray Charles as a good friend so I mention him because I know the man and respect him. One source makes reference to the fact that he was twice on the Ed Sullivan show and, since I remember that program, I allude to it. A similar reason prompts me to remark on his connection to Walt Disney, the Aristocrats, Snow White & Pinocchio. And since his latest album Room with a View (Salle avec Vue), which he made at the spry old age of 84, is doing extremely well in France and pretty well in the US, I think I am going to have to go listen instead of reading sources.

As an update I just saw an interview last weekend (October, 2006) on the French news regarding his latest opening. Now he is roughly 89 and he still looks, and acts, and seems amazingly young at heart. Southern nights must be extremely good for you.




Original appearance Oct 17, 2005, © 2005, © 2006 / Henri SALVADOR / 1917- / musician, singer, jazz / ugly / F+* / 52/ CIP 352, OO 10, RD 17, YP 30/4-17 / For more relevant information see* On Recognition and Ranking

Tuesday 16 January 2007

Pantheon ..../.... The Final Resting Place

Smack dab in the middle of the popular Latin Quarter, and kitty corner to the University of Paris, is the burial place of French luminaries – the Panthéon. The architecture and design (Soufflot and Rondelet) features a dome supported by a colonnade and, of course, the building is the normal French mammoth. The pediment relief by David d’Angers is particularly noteworthy. It is who is entombed inside that is even more impressive. Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Émile Zola and Marie Curie are perhaps the most notable. My choice though, is my hero Jean Moulin, leader of the French Resistance during the war.

Original appearance Apr 19, 2005, © 2005 / PANTHÉON, PL DU PANTHÉON (MONUMENT) / 75005 / 01 44 32 18 00 / CIP 104, OO 08, RD 16, YP 30/4-16

Photography ..../.... In A Flash

The French seem to have a love affair with almost everything including photography. Of course there is Robert Doisneau, their equivalent of our Ansel Adams. And exhibits all over. One of the more interesting shows is a revolving photography exhibit on the fence of the Jardin de Luxembourg, right outside the Senate. When I was there last December it featured ‘108 Dragons’ by Yann Layma a recording of a 20 year odyssey through China from 1982-2002. Fascinating. Another ‘don’t miss’ is the Jeu de Paume, always a photographic exhibit in a colonnaded building at the entrance to the Jardin des Tuileries. Rineke Dijkstra was featured on my last visit. With so many fabulous subjects it is no wonder Paris is a photographer’s Mecca.

Original appearance Apr 19, 2005, © 2005 / CIP 051, OO 08, RD 16, YP 30/3-16

Coordination ..../.... Subtle Subjugation

When the sulphur of the match matches the hue of the seldom if ever used ashtray – that is coordination to the nth degree. French women coordinate their outfits in such a fashion. It is a thing of beauty to see the strap of the shoe perfectly pick up the pinkie ring. I am lucky enough to sometimes have the shirt not actually clash with the sweater, but the complete coordination from the toenail to the top and everything in between, often including the room, is an art form practiced by the extraordinarily fashion conscious French. The end result is subtle subjugation. I am in love.

Original appearance Apr 19, 2005, © 2005 / CIP 038, OO 08, RD 16, YP 30/4-16

Aroma ..../.... Wafting on Air

Scent sent from all quadrants. The aroma of the markets – fresh, fragile and full. Enticing, alive, even joyous; a mélange of fish and fruit, salmon and succulent. Or just wander under a kitchen window right before mealtime – breakfast, lunch, dinner; it doesn’t matter – the pungent wafting of herbs is to die for. Stop into a perfumery, it’s hard to go more than a couple of blocks without finding one. The legendary names: Guerlain, Chanel, Dior and on and on into infinity. I always loved the smell of my malamute Nikita, but truly there’s no comparison.

Original appearance Apr 19, 2005, © 2005 / CIP 013, OO 08, RD 16, YP 30/4-16

August ..../.... A Pleasant Sizzle

I hate Paris in August because it is too hot. I love Paris in August because it is empty. Oh yes there are lots of tourists, but there are no Parisians. They are all on vacation. The whole month. If you don’t work in the tourist industry, and you do work in Paris, you are gone. Au revoir. Bye-bye. Gone. The difference is amazing. The busses aren’t crowded. The streets are passable. The stores are pleasant. Just don’t be on the highway on August 1st or August 31st. Because if you are, you are stuck. Deeply stuck in a traffic jam that makes gridlock in LA look like a piece of cake. Stuck in a traffic jam that snakes ½ way across France. Only the direction of the minuscule movement changes.

Original appearance Apr 19, 2005, © 2005 / CIP 064, OO 08, RD 16, YP 30/4-16

Sunday 14 January 2007

Pont Alexandre III …./…. An Iron Tsar

This one is a major tribute to 19th century engineering. The directive came: without marring the noble perspective build a bridge between the Hôtel des Invalides and the Grand Palais for the 1900 Universal Exhibition. Nicholas II, son of Tsar Alexandre III of Russia, laid the first stone in 1896. The rest is history and became one of the most radiant overpasses in all the world. In a single iron span, and with an almost horizontal roadway, it is a true marvel. Art Nouveau decorations on essentially every inch just add to the pink granite façade and real gold leaf indulgence. Four heavy columns topped with similar gold flying horses, a la Pegasus, anchor the bridge (in French pont). The bronze centerpiece cornucopia and fluted lampposts the entire length finish this elegant span.

Original appearance Jan 14, 2006, © 2006 / PONT ALEXANDRE III / (BRIDGE) / NONE, 75008 / NONE OR NL / KEYS : BRIDGE, ART NOUVEAU, UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION, SINGLE SPAN, IRON, CZAR / CIP 184, OO 09, RD 14, YP 30/3-14

Marcel PAGNOL / To My Parents / 11

As a director, screenwriter. producer and particularly playwright Marcel Pagnol was elected to the Académie française in 1946. In America he is best known as the author of the three plays the movie Fanny was based on (Marius, 1930; Fanny, 1932; and Topaze, 1932). In France he converted the plays into 3 films starring Raimu that many claim are the best series of movies ever made. He was born in Aubagne which might be compared to Boulder, Colorado, and grew up in Marseille which is to Paris something akin to what Denver is to New York Pagnol wrote two semi autobiographical novels which became two classical French movies. ‘My Father’s Glory’ was the first, and ‘My Mother’s Castle’ the second. They are exquisite and really bridge some of the gap between the American Heartland and France. They are a recognition and a tribute to parents everywhere.

Original appearance Oct 14, 2005, © 2005 / Marcel PAGNOL / 1895-1974 / author, film director / good / C / 11 / CIP 311, OO 09, RD 14, YP 30/3-14

Honoré de BALZAC / The Real World / 69

Before there was Reality TV there was Realism in literature, and either we have degenerated into simplicity itself for the sake of our youth, or life was a little more interesting back then. Along with Flaubert, Honoré de Balzac was the creator of Realism in literature, though that wasn’t recognized till after his death. He was a journalist, a writer and a lawyer, and some of his early work was written under pseudonyms. The man wrote 15 hours a day and increasingly consumed himself in writing a series of 90 linked novels and some short stories between 1832-1847. While he had a tendency towards melodrama he was also very observant and had a lively imagination. The aim of the connected novels of La Comédie Humaine was to portray the whole of society in bourgeois France in a vast interlinked panorama. It is a tribute to the man and the accuracy of his real world that almost all of his novels have remained in print to this day.

Original appearance Oct 14, 2005, © 2005 / Honoré de BALZAC / 1799-1850 / author, ‘Human Comedy’ / better / B+ / 69/ CIP 369, OO 09, RD 14, YP 30/3-14

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