Monday 4 August 2008
700 – A Fitting End …./…. Independence
By David Pitt, Monday 4 August 2008 - 07:19 :: Places
It’s a little hidden away – many, many things in Paris are a little hidden away. Still, it is on an outer wall for all to see. There are often plaques on various structures in Paris – quite a few worth reading. En ce bâtiment …. it begins. In this building …. My brother-in-law Antoine, a kind and gentle soul, specifically steered me to the site. He thought I might be particularly interested. He knew I was A Cowboy in Paris. He didn’t know then, though in an hour or two he would, that I was leaving Paris. He couldn’t know what a fitting end he was providing me. We were on the Left Bank, fairly near Saint-Germain-des-Pres in the 6th Arrondissement – 56 rue Jacob actually. The plaque read, in French:
In this building, in bygone days the York Hotel
On September 3rd, 1783
David Hartley for the King of England
Benjamin Franklin, John Jay, & John Adams for The United States
Signed the Definitive Treaty of Peace
Recognizing the Independence of
The United States of America
04/08/2008 / July 2008 / 700 – A Fitting End … Independence / Place / Best / CIP, 700, © 2008 / EUS
With handbags all the rage on Fashion Avenue, Hermes is sitting pretty. Today they are also into silk scarves, ties, bracelets, fragrances, watches, cuff links and ready-to-wear – and, oh yes, they still do saddles. A metamorphose started in 1997 with Martin Margiela, and continued in 1999 with Jean Paul Gaultier, they began to define French chic in clothes. Mostly though this firm, founded in 1837, probably succeeds because it is still family-owned and family-run, with a major emphasis on quality and craftsmanship. This is authentic French luxury. Currently the 5th generation holds sway but the 6th is spread throughout the company and set to soon make its mark.
She died in 1971 but her influence will live on as long as there are women. Lace and languor, soft tweeds and silk, and, even more, Chanel No. 5 will be her legacy. Since 1983 Karl Lagerfeld has been on the scene at Chanel. The fusion of pre-war Chanel’s gauze and glow with Lagerfeld’s sense of humor, contemporary trends, and eccentric hats is interesting. There was a phrase by Suzy Menkes in the International Herald tribune that seemed to sum it up: “…. this wavering waltz between Karl and Coco.” Now the brand has expanded beyond perfume and ready-to-wear into handbags, key chains, shoes and the like. Now it has the biggest boutique in the world in Tokyo, a ten story affair. Ladies still love it all.
23 Place Vendome, Paris 75001. The 001 says it all. First Arrondissement, high rent district, high prices and noses too. Still the merchandise is grand, and fine, and even exalted. Louis-François Cartier founded this house in 1847 and ever since it has been synonymous with luxury. First in traditional jewelry then in fine watches and now expanded into fragrance, leather and a broad array of other riches. He was the crown jeweler to 19 royal houses. Still, it was his three grandsons who took the concept global: Louis in Paris, Jacques in London, and Pierre in New York. Yes, there is one on 5th Avenue. There are other names – Boucheron, Chaumet, Mauboussin & Harry Winston – but there is only one Cartier.
The Drouot had a monopoly in the field of auction houses in France from 1852 until approximately 2001. Since then it has had to compete with Christies and Sothebys. There is more than one but Drouot-Richelieu is the main one. Also there is Tajan and Artcurial to contend with, but that is not my concern here. It is simply the joy of visiting any of the French auction houses – for the really high end you go to the international houses in London and New York. Below that, the mélange of merchandise is what is captivating, the range of prices, the diversity of objects. Even the condescending Parisian disposition seems a little less haughty, though we don’t quite yet approach civil. It is the variety, and the stories that some of the objects could tell, that is downright fun. Attics unlimited – and some of their attics go back a couple of thousand years.
Francesco Procopio, a Sicilian immigrant, opened the prototype in 1686. Starbucks emulated it some years later. Voltaire to Verlaine, Beaumarchais to Balzac and every other French literary figure of any repute were seen at the tables. Polite society, ladies too, graced the establishment. This was a first. Beverages and sherbet drew a crowd. Revamped in 1989 in 18th century style, it is now decorated tastefully, and serves ‘brasserie fare’ the critics sniff. This cowboy loves brasserie fare and the desserts are also great. Embedded in the fascinating Latin Quarter, the oldest restaurant in Paris is well worth a look-see. There is a wide range of prices and unless you know what you are doing it is often best to just order ‘the menu’ (the daily special).
The building is Modern Art – transparent walls, exposed pipes, garish colors. Extremely controversial when it opened in 1977 because it certainly didn’t fit, it has slowly gained acceptance in the neighborhood because it sure does draw a crowd – over 25,000 visitors a day. Blame or praise the architects Renzo Piano of Italy and Richard Rogers of England. Sometimes referred to as the Pompidou (the name of the President of France who commissioned it), it is also often called the Beaubourg, after the district where it is located. It contains over 55,000 works by over 5,000 artists and most of them you can preview online at www.cnac-gp.fr (though the navigation is in French it is almost self explanatory.)
While Modern Art is not my thing, to those who love it Picasso (1881-1973) was a genius. To escape inheritance taxes his family donated most of his work to the state and the Museum opened in the Marais in 1985. Over 200 paintings and almost as many sculptures comprise the heart of this collection that is arranged chronologically and covers all his periods – blue, pink, cubist, classical and surrealist. It is housed on Rue de Thorigny in the Hôtel Salé. This mansion was built in 1656 by Aubert de Fontenay, a ‘salty’ old sort who grew his fortune on the salt tax. The selection starts with a Self Portrait, 1901, and ends with an Old Man Seated, 1971. Picasso’s own personal private art collection is also here and includes works by Cézanne, Miro, Renoir & Matisse.
The Roman Baths (Thermes) and the Medieval Museum of Cluny is way beyond fascinating. Real ruins, downtown Left Bank. Hot and cold running water from about 1800 years ago. A Frigidarium, Caldarium and Tepidarium, nestled amongst the National Museum of the Middle Ages. Flamboyant Gothic and Renaissance architecture with a near unbelievable collection of Medieval art, all right across the street from the Sorbonne. Thank you Alexandré du Sommerard. The original baths were built around 210 and sacked by the barbarians around 280; the medieval mansion was built between 1485-1510; in between it was a monastery and home to Papel Nuncios. A brilliant series of Lady With the Unicorn tapestries, original stained glass from Sainte-Chapelle, and 21 statues of the Kings of Judah are major featured exhibits. The statues, carved around 1220, were decapitated during the French Revolution and the heads buried and lost till 1977.