Friday 22 June 2007
Chanel ..../.... Coco & Karl
By David Pitt, Friday 22 June 2007 - 23:46 :: Places
She died in 1971 but her influence will live on as long as there are women. Lace and languor, soft tweeds and silk, and, even more, Chanel No. 5 will be her legacy. Since 1983 Karl Lagerfeld has been on the scene at Chanel. The fusion of pre-war Chanel’s gauze and glow with Lagerfeld’s sense of humor, contemporary trends, and eccentric hats is interesting. There was a phrase by Suzy Menkes in the International Herald tribune that seemed to sum it up: “…. this wavering waltz between Karl and Coco.” Now the brand has expanded beyond perfume and ready-to-wear into handbags, key chains, shoes and the like. Now it has the biggest boutique in the world in Tokyo, a ten story affair. Ladies still love it all.
Original appearance Sept 07, 2005, © 2005 / Chanel, Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel, Haute Couture / 29-31 RUE CAMBON, 75001 / 01 42 86 28 00 / CIP 148, OO 23, RD 07, YP 30/11-7
23 Place Vendome, Paris 75001. The 001 says it all. First Arrondissement, high rent district, high prices and noses too. Still the merchandise is grand, and fine, and even exalted. Louis-François Cartier founded this house in 1847 and ever since it has been synonymous with luxury. First in traditional jewelry then in fine watches and now expanded into fragrance, leather and a broad array of other riches. He was the crown jeweler to 19 royal houses. Still, it was his three grandsons who took the concept global: Louis in Paris, Jacques in London, and Pierre in New York. Yes, there is one on 5th Avenue. There are other names – Boucheron, Chaumet, Mauboussin & Harry Winston – but there is only one Cartier.
The Drouot had a monopoly in the field of auction houses in France from 1852 until approximately 2001. Since then it has had to compete with Christies and Sothebys. There is more than one but Drouot-Richelieu is the main one. Also there is Tajan and Artcurial to contend with, but that is not my concern here. It is simply the joy of visiting any of the French auction houses – for the really high end you go to the international houses in London and New York. Below that, the mélange of merchandise is what is captivating, the range of prices, the diversity of objects. Even the condescending Parisian disposition seems a little less haughty, though we don’t quite yet approach civil. It is the variety, and the stories that some of the objects could tell, that is downright fun. Attics unlimited – and some of their attics go back a couple of thousand years.