I’ve never seen it, only pictures. Certainly I have passed it dozens of times since I moved to Paris almost 3 years ago now. The Tour St-Jacques has always been sheathed in plastic and undergoing renovation. I know it is a late Gothic tower (semi steeple) of a church that was mostly destroyed in the revolution. The church was built in 1523 and was the starting point for pilgrimages to Spain in the Middle Ages. Blaise Pascal used the tower for barometric experiments. The pictures are beautiful. Really though it isn’t that, that I want to talk about. It’s about Paris renovation. No matter when you visit the City of Light, 2, or 3, or 4, (in the winter sometimes even more) of the major attractions will be undergoing refurbishing. Some of these projects last many months and a few last many years. Occasionally people complain about the shrouding. Before you get too perturbed look around at the rest of Paris. Realize that the most glorious city in the world looks as gorgeous as it does because it is being constantly renewed.

Original appearance Feb 29, 2006, © 2006 / ST-JACQUES / TOUR ST-JACQUES, (TOWER) / 41 RUE DE RIVOLI, 75004 / NONE OR NL / KEYS : TOWER, 1523, GOTHIC, BLAISE PASCAL, HIGH STEEPLE, METEOROLOGICAL / CIP 199, OO 24, RD 29 OR 01, YP 30/10-29

A few kilometers southwest of Paris, via Gare Montparnasse, lies the prestigious monument that perhaps best depicts the 17th century world. Yes world, because between 1682-1789 this was much closer to the world capital than Washington is today. Elsewhere I have spoken of the Palais and here we dwell on the Jardins du Versailles. This is the epitome of what we refer to as the French Formal Garden as designed by the creator of that style André Le Nôtre. 250 acres and 300 statues of nature controlled – even posed we could say. Vast perspectives of a rational world absolutely commanded. Paths, groves, fountains (Apollo, Neptune and Latona are very spectacular), canals, columns, statues, pools, arches, urns, aqueducts, obelisks, baths and a dragon, 2 quincunxes and a few frogs are particularly noteworthy. It was built between 1661-1690 and, like many things French, dominated by a central axis – this served for funneling lines of perspective channeling water and utilizing the layout of the land. Amen to André Le Nôtre perhaps the most superb landscaper of all time (1613-1700).

Original appearance Jan 29, 2006, © 2006 / VERSAILLES / JARDINS DU VERSAILLES, (GARDEN) / AVENUE DE PARIS, 78000 / 01 30 83 77 88 / KEYS : FORMAL GARDENS, COLONNADE, GRAND CANAL, LATONA / CIP 189, OO 14, RD 29 YP 30/6-29

Three big buildings one department store. French chic and fashion are big business. Building 1, Printemps de la Mode – women, luxury, beauty. Building 2, Printemps de la Maison – home decoration. Building 3, Printemps de l’Homme – men’s fashion. Spring (printemps) is bursting out all over. Luxury goods and fashion are big business in France. Actually with tourism they are close to the only viable enterprise. To give you some idea of how viable, 18 separate bus lines and all taxis go to Printemps. It was founded in 1865 by Jules Jaluzot and rebuilt after a fire in 1881. In 1907 the now flagship building #1 was added, and then in 1930 building #3. In 1991 François Pinault of the PPR Group took over – that group which is almost entirely luxury goods and includes Gucci sold 17.8 billion euros worth of luxury in 2004.

Original appearance Nov 26, 2005, © 2005 / PRINTEMPS / AU PRINTEMPS, (DEPARTMENT STORE) / 64 BLVD HAUSSMANN, 75009 / 01 42 82 50 00 / KEYS : DEPT. STORE, TABLEWARE, FASHION SHOWS, XMAS DÉCOR. 1865, SÉDILLE / CIP 173, OO 23, RD 07, YP 30/11-7

The Mémorial de Caen was built in 1988 and it’s focus is on peace not war. To that degree and for the future it is commendable beyond measure. It is also a French perspective in France, and thus it must be honored. As a hope and as a lesson it is more than justified. Spend the day reviewing and thinking about the seven sections that start with the Failure of Peace (1918-1939), and that end with the Nobel Peace Prizewinners Gallery. Still just a little before sunset leave this place. Almost nothing (except Hitler and his ilk) justifies war. As a memorial and an honor go down the road to the American Cemetery in Coleville Sur Mer. There, you will be overlooking Omaha Beach, Pointe du Hoc and Utah. There, among the 9,000 crosses and markers, watch the sunset and listen to Taps. The boys have listened every night for sixty years now. You might cry, but you will have honored them.

Original appearance Oct 26, 2005, © 2005 / ELSEWHERE / OUTSIDE PARIS / STILL IN FRANCE / MÉMORIAL DE CAEN / CIP 163, OO 13, RD 04, YP 30/6-4

It is ironic the meandering course that history takes. The French Academy, now more formally known as the Institut de France, was established as L’Académie Française by Cardinal Richelieu in 1635. Today, as in the past, it is the arbiter of the French language – the spelling, the grammar even the very existence of a word. The decision on this heady stuff – and in France it is extremely important – is given to 40 ‘Immortals’ who, after election by the body itself, serve for life. It is interesting who does and does not make it to this august body – Balzac, Molière Descartes, and Zola never did, but 5 former heads of state managed to wear the Green Habit that is emblematic of coronation. An interesting conundrum: if they eliminate the word academy (which they did once in a politically correct fit) does the institution also die. It did, but was resurrected by Napoleonic fiat. And now, as in everything else, the state has the final veto.

Original appearance Jan 28, 2006, © 2006 / INSTITUT DE FRANCE / (FRENCH ACADEMY) / 23 QUAI DE CONTI, 75006 / 01 44 41 43 45 / KEYS : INSTITUE,MONUMENT, ACADÉMIE FRANÇAISE, BY APT. ONLY, 1795, MAZARIN, PLACE / CIP 162, OO 12, RD 28, YP 30/5-28

Don’t get too excited because you can’t go in without an invitation or an appointment. But you can stroll the gardens and that alone is worthwhile. Richelieu built it and bequeathed it, Louis XIV grew up in it, and the Dukes of Orléans used it as their Paris seat from 1692-1793. Since then it has been the Council of State, the highest legal body of the land. Molière and Dumas are intertwined with it. Despite all that it has had a checkered history, with smart shops sharing the limelight with ladies of the night and revolutionary fervor. A small cannon fused by the sun’s rays still fires everyday at noon.

Original appearance July 22, 2005, © 2005 / Palais Royal, Conseil d’État, Council of State / PL DU PALAIS ROYAL, 75001 / NONE OR NL / CIP 135, OO 10, RD 22, YP 30/5-22

The 331 members of the French Senate call it home for their 6 year terms but long before that Marie de Medici called this mansion home. It was built between 1612-1622 by the architect Salomon de Brosse for the widow of Henri IV during her regency for her son Louis XIII. It was meant to remind her of the Pitti Palace in Florence. The Palais du Luxembourg was taken over by the state in 1792 and became a prison during the Revolution. Later it became the seat of the Senate (le Sénat) the successor to the Chamber of Peers. During World War II it served as Luftwaffe Headquarters and under the gardens are said to be numerous air raid shelters. While the building is not open to visitors the truly magnificent grounds are. It is interesting to note that both the National Assembly (roughly their House of Representatives) and the Senate were originally built as mansions for noble women.

Original appearance Jan 25, 2006, © 2006 / LUXEMBOURG / PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG, (THE SENATE) / 15 RUE DE VAUGIRARD, 75006 / 01 42 34 20 00 / KEYS : PALACE, MUSEUM, FRENCH SENATE, MARIE DE MÉDICIS, LUFTWAFFE, 1612-1622, / CIP 161, OO 11, RD 25 YP 30/5-25

This is the flagship of a group of 9 brasseries (medium priced Alsatian seafood and choucroute cuisine). It opened in 1860 and is a little hard to find in a passageway deep in the 10th. The history is interesting. Originally it was named ‘Hans’ but after some anti-German demonstrations in 1914 it changed it’s name to Flo, the diminutive of the then owner’s name Robert Floderer. Time passed, it became well known and it expanded. In 1968 they were bought by Jean-Paul Bucher and became the original building bloc of the Flo Groupe. That group has now expanded to over 165 locations including many of the most famous restaurant names in Paris. La Closerie des Lilas, Jules Verne, La Coupole, La Tour d’Argent, Bofinger, and Aux Deux Magots to name a few. We’re talking big bucks here – revenues of over 400 million dollars in 2004. If you visit Paris and you eat you will almost for sure be contributing. By the way, he is a former chef and they say he keeps both the name and the quality up. Now they are operating a Brasserie Flo in Beijing.

An update: I just ate at the original Flo again last Saturday (Aug. 19, 2006). Aunt Janine - she's 80 something now - invited us. To be sure she is regal and she has been going there forever, but still the way they treated her was a joy to see. The banter and the deference was simply exquisite and very appropriate. Bravo!

Original appearance Nov 28, 2005, © 2005 Updated Aug 2006, © 2006 / BRASSERIE FLO / (RESTAURANT) / 7 COUR DES PETITES-ECURIES, 75010 / 01 47 70 13 59 / KEYS : ALSATIAN BRASSERIE, CHOUCROUTE = SAUERKRAUT, ROBERT FLODERER 'FLO' / CIP 171, OO 21, RD 28, YP 30/10-28

Originally the National Assembly structure was built in 1722 as a home for the daughter of Louis XIV by the architect Gabriel – which is why this building is also known as the Palais Bourbon. The north face of 12 Corinthian columns were added by Poyet in 1807 to echo the Madeleine church which it faces across the Place de la Concorde and down the Rue Royale. Just another of the grand axis that abound in this majestic city. The building was confiscated during the Revolution and for awhile was a school before becoming the lower house of Parliament in 1830. Since then 577 Deputies have called it home – they serve a five year term unless the President dissolves Parliament before the next scheduled election. It is rather opulent both inside and out with the main chamber consisting of semi circular tiers upon rich red carpeting and the library featuring decorations by Delacroix. It is a deputies delight but don’t plan on going inside unless you have prearranged it. Security in all government buildings is rather rigorous.

Original appearance Jan 22, 2006, © 2006 / ASSEMBLÉE / ASSEMBLÉE NATIONALE, (LEGISLATURE) / 29 A 35 QUAI D'ORSAY, 75007 / 01 40 63 60 00 / KEYS : PALACE, PARLIAMENT, 1722, AKA PALAIS BOURBON, REVOLUTION, MONUMENT / CIP 160, OO 10, RD 22, YP 30/5-22

There are no thumbs or fingers in Bofinger – it is pronounced beau or bow-fahn-jay or zhay. If you ask where bow-finger is you will never find the restaurant and it is worth finding. It is a brasserie which is a type of restaurant that specialized in Alsatian seafood, sauerkraut and sausage. By Parisian standards it is relatively inexpensive and it is super good. It is actually a chain now so there is more than one, but the original (address listed below) is now a protected national monument and worth seeking out specifically. All of them have good food as do most brasseries throughout Paris. The stained glass dome at the original is spectacular and, as it opened for business in 1864, it has a little history going for it, besides being the first place in Paris to serve draught beer. In addition you will be real close to where the Bastille once stood and you get to see the controversial new opera house.

Original appearance Nov 17, 2005, © 2005 / BOFINGER / BRASSERIE BOFINGER, (RESTAURANT) / 7 RUE DE LA BASTILLE, 75004 / 01 42 72 87 72 / BRASSERIE, 1864, DÉCOR, SHELLFISH, BRANCHES, POPULAR, CUPOLA, LEGAY / CIP 170, OO 20, RD 25, YP 30/9-25